Oil, Your Car, and Your Wallet, or Why I Don't Buy Aftermarket Additives!

Knowing a little about oil can go a long way to helpingadditives contain "questionable" materials that could
you decide where to put your hard-earnedharm engines. Engine oils are complex mixtures and
cash...What is Oil?Nearly everyone is aware that crudeadding the wrong chemical compound to a properly
oil was formed by the decomposition of plant andformulated blend can cause failure of other critical
animal life from hundreds of millions of years ago.additives.Your engine was designed by competent
This material was compressed under vastengineers and a lubricating oil was specified for it.
sea-bottom deposits and the pressure and heatProperly maintained (and brought up to correct
created hydrocarbons: that is, mineral, or crude,operating temperature at each use), it will easily last
oil.Lubricating oils are the product of the refining of150-200,000 miles on ordinary mineral oils. Under
crude oils. These oils are materials made up of manynormal operation (startup to redline) the extremes of
chemicals, including detergent and paraffin. Paraffinload, temperature and wear claimed by additive
(wax) is an inherent component of crude oil and notadvertisers don't exist in your engine.We can't stress
all is refined out. Paraffin is the chief reason oilthe following enough:No oil manufacturer recommends
thickens up when it gets cold. Anyway, back to ourthe use of off-the-shelf additives in their products,
engines...Engines would quickly seize-up withoutnor do any automobile manufacturers. Most additives
lubrication and oils are designed to prevent bearingdo nothing (remember, those high loads and stresses
wear and metal-to-metal contact. This isdon't take place in normal engine operation) and
accomplished by pumping the oil under pressure sosome actually can contaminate the oil. No
that it forms a film between those parts.manufacturer's warranty will cover failure if it is found
Manufacturers put special additives to oil to allow it tothat an additive was present in the engine oil.Virtually
perform properly over varying engine conditions andall additive advertisements (and synthetic oil ads as
time. Some additives slow thinning as enginewell) claim better fuel mileage. This is anecdotal,
temperatures rise, hence the "multigrade" designationunprovable and non-scientific (before you write back
on the container. Other additives help to limit thewith your rebuttal, consider this: if any claim of better
breakdown of oil under loads.Internal combustionmileage could be proved to be repeatable, the
causes byproducts such as water and carbon. Thesegovernment (NHTSA, in fact) would require the
byproducts are what create the "dirt" in oil,manufacturers to use the product. The
necessitating scheduled changes. These can createmanufacturers themselves would specify it because it
deposits and acids, so other additives are in place tois all they can do to reach those CAFE - Corporate
do the following:- Antioxidants are there to minimizeAverage Fuel Economy - standards). It just ain't
the formation of acids, varnish and sludge.-true.So you used an additive once and found the
Detergents are added to keep engine parts clean byengine ran better and you got better fuel economy?
lifting deposits (mostly carbon) from surfaces.-Of course you did, because you were paying closer
Corrosion Inhibitors also work against the formationattention to its operation than you normally would!
of acids that can attack bearing surfaces.- RustThis is known as the "Hawthorne Effect" and it
Inhibitors keep water from mixing with the oil filmworks because of that very fact. If you collected
and causing rust.- Foam Inhibitors prevent therandom records of the engine's performance you
formation of foam bubbles in the oil, due towould find no change from before.How About
detergents and the physical churning of the oil duringSynthetic Oil?Today's motor oils are very high-quality
engine operation.- Friction and Wear Reducers,products. However, synthetic oils are becoming very
Dispersants are there to help keep insolublepopular, especially used in high-performance engines.
combustion byproducts in suspension and to minimizeSynthetic oils are blends of synthesized hydrocarbon
wear in bearings.So Far, So Good, But What Aboutfluids (SHF) and esters, all derived from the refining
Aftermarket Additives?All mineral oils are graded byprocess. The chief material of synthetic oil is
the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). Thesepolyalphaolefin, derived from ethylene. Synthetics can
grading criteria are based upon the expected loadbe called petrochemicals, and while they appear
and temperature ranges under which a given enginechemically similar to mineral oils they are "pure"
will be used. Viscosity grades are available in a widechemicals. No waxes or other impurities are present in
range. These grades are most frequently seen insynthetic oils. Since they don't contain parafin,
forms such as 5W-30, 10W-30, etc., in multi-vicositysynthetics tend to flow better at lower
blends. Straight viscosities are also available (20 W,temperatures and not thin out as much at higher
30W, etc.).It is true that most engine wear takestemperatures. They are available in multi-viscosity
place during startup, since virtually no measurablegrades from 0W-30 to 15W-50.Synthetic oil has some
wear takes place during running. The faster an engineadvantages:- Relatively constant viscosity over a
is revved during startup, the more the wear, sowide temperature range- Higher detergent properties.
keeping a light foot on the accelerator pedal duringThey are naturally detergent- Non-toxic when
startup -and warmup - is the secret to long enginehandled properly- No harmful impurities- Better
life.Oil is viscous and has capillary action. That is, itlubricative properties- Less breakdown tendency
remains on the engine parts as a film indefinitely afterunder high loadsSynthetic oils cost about three times
running. Contrary to advertisements, your engine'sthat of regular oils and aren't really necessary for
parts don't scrape against each other (as bare metal)most people. There are some situations wherein the
just because you haven't started it in a few weeksextra expense of synthetic oils is warranted,
(granted, if it's 10-degrees outside and you haven'thowever.1. Racing: Engines are run full-time at high rev
started that '59 Corvette in six months, there will beand there is tremendous heat. You need all the help
a little wear when you start it up. However, if youyou can get.2. Extremely cold environments. Maybe
crank the starter for 30 seconds or so and thenyour engine won't know the difference, but you'll
start the engine, little significant damage will resultsave money on batteries.3. Engines which don't use
because you will have pumped oil into the systemcamshaft bearings (Lamborghini,Ferrari and others,
under minimal loads).For decades, however, a hugeincluding 30s and 40s cars).4. Engines that won't
industry has made billions of dollars by convincing theregularly get up to proper operating temperatures.
public that their engines are wearing out prematurelyImproper warm-up is the biggest killer of engines.
due to lack of "complete" lubrication. The aftermarketCold sludge and varnish will build up and create lots of
oil additive industry - there are many of them andfriction, hence wear and failure. Synthetic oils will not
they advertise everywhere - claims to showform these deposits.5. Carbureted cars that run
"proven" results, longer life, better mileage, etc. byexceptionally rich (if the oil dipstick smells like gas,
using their products. None of this is true.What theseyours is one).Myths About Synthetics:It can't be
marketers are selling falls generally into twomixed with regular mineral oils.Not so. Mobil 1 and the
categories: either their product is a variety of solubleothers are perfectly compatible with mineral oils (but
chemicals (chiefly, chlorinated paraffin) or solidnot with each other).You get longer oil life with it.Not
particles suspended in a "carrier." The chlorinatedso. You have to change your oil according to
paraffins work fine for your drill press (cutting oil ismanufacturers' instructions (it's the exhaust
chlorinated paraffin) but don't do anything in yourbyproducts which get into the oil and turn it black,
engine. Solid particle additives, chiefly PTFE or Teflon,requiring change. Synthetic oil can't hold any more of
is a suspension of ground-up particles in oil. It won'tthese particles than mineral oil).Synthetic oil will
work, period.Many of the aftermarket additivesdestroy seals and gaskets in older vehicles.Not so. If
contain compounds already added by the oil refinerthe seals are functional no harm will be done. If they
(No, more is not better! The refiner put in the rightare hardened and shrunken, you need to rebuild the
amount for the job and more would only upset theengine.
mixing proportions of the other additives!). Other